| Important Terms |
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DIPOLE ANTENNA: Two lengths of wire running
in opposite directions from a common starting point.
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COAXIAL CABLE: Signals that travel straight
across the horizon and on into space.
more info »
DIPOLE HARMONIC: Antenna cut to a multiple of
the target frequency.
DIPOLE SUB -HARMONIC: Antenna cut to match a
division of the Target Frequency.
ACTIVE ANTENNA: Antenna used in conjunction
with a broadband amplifier. |
The antenna is that part of your receiver which actually captures signals
from distant stations. Technically, the antenna is an extension of your
receiver's design even though your radio may not have come equipped with one.
Portable radios often feature a built-in antenna but most larger sets do
not. If your radio doesn't have a built-in antenna, or if you would
like to get better reception on your portable, then lake a moment to learn a
few antenna basics.
Antennas work best when erected outdoors. Some communities place restrictions
on outdoor antenna construction, so you might want to begin by checking
local ordinances. The only other limiting factors will be space and the
availability of structures to support the antenna.
Some basic rules for antenna construction:
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First, It is important that you
get the antenna up as high as possible. |
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Second, avoid sources of radio
frequency noise such as power lines, transformers, heavy machinery, or
fluorescent lights. |
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Third, for safety, remember to NEVER cross your antenna
over or under power lines. |
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Fourth, remember that reception generally is best
when the antenna is placed at right angles to the signal you want to
receive. Of course, this means that you do not want to run your antenna
parallel to power or telephone lines. |
Copper wire is best for antennas. Select a good size wire that will withstand
its weight and movement in the wind. Use ceramic insulators when securing
the antenna wire to its support at the ends or at any points of support in
between. Remember that when splicing wires together that are going to remain
outside, make secure splices with bare wire against bare wire, and
weatherproof the splice with a generous wrapping of electrical tape.
Connecting the antenna to the receiver is done with a lead-in wire. The
lead-in for a basic long wire antenna can simply be more wire, or even a
continuation of the antenna wire itself.
The lead in must not come in contact with anything that will absorb its radio
energy, so use ceramic insulators to secure it along its path. Insulated
wire will be handy for bringing the wire inside through a window or any
convenient opening.
If you must run the lead-in wire close to radio
frequency noise sources, use a coaxial cable. This type of cable transfers
the signal from the antenna to the receiver through a specially protected
center wire. The outside metal braid of coaxial cable shields the center
wire from interference by being grounded to your receiver.
The selection of what kind of coax you use is determined by the impedance
rating of your receiver. Check the manual and find out which kind is
recommended to match up best.
Check These Antenna Basics
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Run the wire as high as possible. |
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Avoid radio frequency noise producing sources. |
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Insulate all wire supports. |
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NEVER crossover or under power lines.
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The basic antenna is the long wire. However, the best reception comes from
specialized dipoles. These antennas are tuned to match a specific frequency
for superior performance. A dipole is two identical lengths of wire, running at opposite directions of
each other from one common starting point. It uses a coaxial cable lead-in
that connects at that starting point. The center lead of the coax is
connected to one wire, the outside metal braid to the other. Remember to make secure splices with bare wire against bare wire, and
weatherproof the splice with a generous wrapping of electrical tape. On the
receiver end of the coax, the outside metal braid connects to the receiver
ground, the inside lead to the antenna terminal. The lengths of the two
wires making up the dipole are determined by the frequency you want the dipole to maximize. The total length of the completed dipole should
match the wavelength in meters on which you want the best performance. To determine the length for your dipole, use this formula for converting
frequency to wavelength: The wavelength in meters is equal to 300 divided by
the frequency in megahertz. The full length of the dipole should match the
length in meters of your target frequency. If that is too long of an antenna to be practical, it will still perform well
if you cut it to match one-half the wavelength. This is called a half-wave
dipole. In fact, it is interesting to note that a dipole with a length cut
for 30 meters will give an almost equal peak performance on 15 meters, as
well as 60 meters. A multiple of the frequency is referred to as a harmonic.
A division of the frequency is called a sub- harmonic. A dipole will also
receive frequencies in between the peak points, but not at maximum
performance. If you live in an apartment or have limited outdoor space, you can use an
indoor antenna. Often a simple long wire strung around the wall near the
ceiling and hidden as much as possible will give you reasonable reception. Another option is the vertical antenna, like the telescoping antenna of a
portable. A vertical used with a broad-band amplifier is called an active
antenna. These, too, work reasonably well, but pick up electrical noise much
more easily.
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