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by Paul Ormandy
on 24-08-2004
at Media Network
Receivers
O.K,
so it's a pretty essential piece of
equipment, but what do you need to make all
the effort you've put into antennas, finding
a location, extra equipment, time off work
and away from loved ones worth the while? A
receiver that will maximise your chances of
hearing those weak, distant signals.
There are numerous
figures and specifications provided by
manufacturers and test panels which will
point you in the right direction towards a
DX dream-machine. If were to purchase a
receiver for the prime intention of MW DX,
the factors I'd be most interested in are:
- Selectivity
In the
crowded MW band where stations are
separated by as little as 1kHz, the
ability of the receiver to discriminate
between adjacent stations and to provide
loggable audio is essential. What's more
the width of the filter's skirt is as
important as its quoted width and is
often determined by the type of material
the filter is manufactured from. For
example, ceramic filters have very wide
skirts allowing interference to ingress
whereas mechanical or crystal filters
provide very sharp skirts. Look for a
receiver with a filter of around 2.5kHz
at -6dB and a skirt width of less than
5kHz at -60dB (the narrower the -60dB
figure in relation to the -6db the
better - don't worry too much what that
means, just use it as a point of
comparison between receivers).
- If you're tossing up
options at purchase time, between a VHF
converter, external speaker or a sharper
filter, take the latter!
- Sensitivity
Some
receivers aren't designed to apply all
of their features to MW and sensitivity
is often affected by internal
attenuation to prevent strong local
signals over-loading the receiver. In
many receivers the attenuation can be
readily set to zero by a front-panel
control, or a simple software fix. In
others, (e.g. Kenwood R-5000) it's a
soldering iron job which, given the
complexity of modern receivers, not all
will be keen to tackle.
- Preamps
Generally
useful devices that may be handy for
giving a weak signal that extra nudge.
Pre-amps that do not degrade the
signal-to-noise ratio are extremely
useful, though often they have been
disabled on MW or require a user
software fix to be enabled. Check to see
if they will work on the MW band or can
be adapted to do so.
- Memories
Some may
consider having a receiver with 400
memories as more than sufficient, though
for the MW DXer, the ability to program
in every MW DX channel in the best mode,
with the optimum filter setting etc. is
a real bonus. This allows swift tuning
between channels which in a strong
opening is very handy for analysing the
best frequency(s) to monitor.
- Noise Floor
And there's
little point in erecting long antennas,
spending heaps on coax, preamplifiers,
tuners, baluns etc, if the weak signals
you're chasing can't be heard under the
receivers internal noise! A simple test
to see how noisy a receiver is, remove
the antenna and turn the volume right up
- should be very quiet, a low-level
background noise, ideally the noise
level would be near zero and you would
hardly notice the volume had been
increased. I'm fortunate to have an
ultra-quiet 25 year old Drake SPR-4 that
has allowed reception of weak signals at loggable levels, which have been buried
on colleagues' receivers.
- Hash
Modern
receivers with all their synthesisers,
microprocessors and fluorescent displays
can produce a fair amount of internal
noise. This can effect the use of
indoor loop antennas near the receiver,
as they'll pick up the noise radiated
from the electronics. Another simple
test is to hold a transistor radio about
50 cm from the set and see how much hash
it picks up.
- Operating
Voltage/Current Consumption
If battery
operation is required (for example when
running mobile or on DXpeditions) the
amount of power drawn by a receiver will
dictate how long a battery will last
(and if you can start the car after a
nights DX!). The Drake R-8A uses 2 amps
when running (i.e. 30 hours operation on
a fully charged car battery) though the
drop in voltage will see the set turning
itself off well before the 30 hours are
up and 1 amp switched off on the front
panel. The consequences of high battery
drain mean that you'll need to be
prepared for long stints at the dials by
bringing extra batteries or charging
between uses.
Most receivers are designed to work off
12 or 13.8 volts DC though the AOR 7030+
prefers 15 volts for optimum
performance, although it functions very
well at 12 volts.
- Antenna Switches
Most
receivers come equipped with the
facility for 1 x 50 ohm input and 1 x
600 ohm input antenna with front-panel
switching. I’d prefer to see at least 3
x 50 ohm inputs to allow ready access to
a range of antennas. Strangely, the
AOR7030+ doesn’t have an antenna switch
so an external device is necessary.
Best Receivers
If you're looking for a
new receiver, there are a number of models
currently available that are hailed by DXers
as good MW DX machines. Sadly I'm not in the
position of having personally used all of
these sets, with the exception of the Drake
SPR-4 (which I've owned for 15 years), R-8,
R-8A and AOR-7030+, though general consensus
would be to seriously consider the
following:
-
Drake R8-B
-
Japan Radio NRD-545
-
AOR 7030+
For 'pre-loved' units,
look for:
-
Drake SPR-4, R4B, or R4C
-
Icom ICR-71
-
Drake R8
-
Drake R8A
-
Japan Radio NRD-535
-
Watkins Johnson HF-1000
(if price is no object!)
And if mains operation is
possible
-
Collins R390A >> users.erols.com/eengineer/new390A.html
- Racal RA-17 or RA-117 >> recelectronics.demon.co.uk
|
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Another option worth
exploring with many radios to make them
really top performing sets is to purchase
one modified by sherweng dot com/ radios.html >> Sherwood Engineering For not a lot more than the purchase price, Sherwood can 'hot-rod' several of the above.
Headphones
There
are several types of headphone worth
considering. Headphones manufactured with
the hi-fi market in mind reproduce high
levels of bass and treble. They give
excellent frequency response and provide
pleasant listening to high-quality music.
Great for music and often suitable for
DXing, though there is another option.
A MW DXer generally isn't
too interested in high-fidelity, the
frequencies covered by the spoken world are
more crucial and there are several
headphones that emphasise that frequency
range. These are manufactured for the
amateur radio and DX fraternity by the likes
of Kenwood and Icom. They reduce the amount
of bass and therefore rumble and reduce the
amount of treble, which will soften
heterodyne whistles and reduce hiss.
If you are DXing with
others, and particularly on a DXpedition,
you'll need a pair of enclosed muff phones
to prevent what you're listening to annoying
others. There are noise-cancelling
headphones which form an electronic
noise-barrier to prevent external noise
affecting your listening. Sony is one
manufacturer of these surprisingly effective
devices.
Audio Recorders
It's also important that
you have a good tape recorder to capture as
many of those often fleeting moments of
reception as possible. Some DXers leave the
recorder running non-stop, others hit the
record button as soon as something
interesting pops up.
And recording media now
comes in many forms and prices.
Audio
Cassette Recorder.
No doubt the
cheapest option,
though a recorder
with external
line-in (or
microphone socket),
tape counter and
external DC power
connection are
handy. These range
from el-cheapo to
the broadcast
quality versions
used by media
journalists. |
 |
DAT.
Digital Audio Tape
offers one of the
highest quality
portable tape-based
recorders. The tapes
and recorders are
considerably dearer
than audio cassettes
but this is offset
by the wide
frequency response
and dynamic range |
 |
Mini-Disc.
Another portable
solution using a
small CD and also
expensive. What’s
more, some mini-disc
models radiate a
fair amount of hash
and aren’t suitable
in all situations. |
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MP3.
The new kid on the
block. No tape or
disk is required as
the audio is
recorded onto a
computer chip. These
are still in their
infancy and the
amount of time
available for
recording is
relatively short
though I'd expect
these units to
become one of the
tools of the
DX-trade before too
long. |
 |
A little trick when using
stereo recorders. Feed the audio from your
main receiver into one channel and audio
from a second receiver tuned to WWV into the
other. That way you’ll be able to have a
time-base accessible by playing the tape
back through an amplifier with a balance
control. (Thanks to Andy Gardner!)
Accessories
There are other items
that the MW DXer may find handy in the
pursuit of weak signals, particularly on
DXpedition when accompanied by colleagues.
When
using modern sets with low-impedance inputs
connected to high impedance antennas (e.g.
Beverages) a balun is required to maximise
signal transfer between the two. Baluns are
best installed some distance from the
receivers and fed with coax to prevent
interaction. It is also a good idea to keep
antennas separate as they approach the
listening site (e,g, not anchored on the
same pole) for the same reason.
When you're fortunate
enough to have a number of antennas to
choose from, an antenna switch will be
required. Ideally they should be metal
-encased and offer high isolation between
antennas to prevent interaction.
On DXpeditions when DXers
are sharing an antenna, a splitter is
required to provide equal signal levels to
all sets. Standard splitters will cause a
small signal loss so amplified versions are
another option.
And
when you've finally found that ultra-quiet
environment, a preamplifier may help you
drag a signal out of the mud. It is
important that the amplifier has a very low
level of internal noise otherwise it will
also bury the signal. Make sure the
preamplifier has excellent signal-to-noise
figures. An good unit would have a gain of
10 - 20dB and a noise figure of around 2dB.
Also make sure they work down to 0.5mHz
(500kHz) as a lot of preamps are designed
for above 1.8mHz.
You'll find most of these
available from places like
Universal Radio,
advancedreceiver dot com/ page46.html
Advanced Receiver,
stridsberg dot com
Stridsberg Engineering
or Kiwa all in the USA,
Wellbrook
in the United Kingdom or
Paul Ormandy's >> radiodx.com/spdxr/ Baluns.htm
Equinox
balun. Home -brewers may
wish to check Mark Connelly's
WA1ION DX Labs
page
Batteries
If
a mains-free DXpedition is planned,
consideration to the type of battery is
important. For short duration trips, a
standard 60 amp-hour car battery may
suffice, though for longer stays or with
multiple receivers sharing the same power
source, a deep-cycle battery is highly
recommended.
These units are often
used for back-up power supplies or where
reliability is crucial because of their
ability to provide a constant voltage under
heavy current drain for a considerable
period of time.
Whilst more expensive,
they are undoubtedly good value given their
suitability for running 3+ sets at once.
Ratings of at least 85 amp-hour would be the
minimum and 120 amp-hour suggested.
Lighting
If you're operating on 12
volts, a lighting system that provides
maximum light output and minimum battery
drain is essential. I've used standard
incandescents (high drain, poor light),
fluorescents (low drain, good light but
dreadful RF interference) and gas light (no
battery drain, excellent light but very
noisy). The answers to my dilemma take the
form of 12 volt halogen lights. A 20-watt
unit over head gives excellent light and
less than 2-amp-hour drain though if you're
going to have a light mounted a short
distance over-head, go for a 10 watt unit as
the light output is quite brilliant.
- Next Section:
Antennas ---
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